This was one of my first projects using some wood from my grandad’s garage. This piece was already cut to this profile and in wondering what to use it for, I decided some sort of wall mountable glasses holder would be best.
I made this between 24th and 28th March 2015, before I had set up my workshop. These photos will link to other projects (lathe assembly, old workshop etc – links pending) eventually. This design is very simple and could be made from any wood. I made it to fit the glasses I had at the time, more on this later.
Since this length was too long to use on its own, I cut one end off to square it and then cut it to length. I’d worked out that for the glasses I had, 80 mm centres would suffice. With a 40 mm overhang, I could get 8 glasses into a 640 mm length.
This was cut using my original saw’s blade and a crosscut sled which I made from a YouTube video (probably Woodworking for Mere Mortals).
I will re-investigate the end grain to confirm the species of wood one day.
I marked out the 80 mm bays and then some other diagonals to locate the centre using my combination square.
It was then time to put pilot holes in at the centre. I think this was my first use of the drill press which really offered some accuracy. I’d set the fence so that the depth would be central.
I used to think that lasers on such tools were inaccurate gimmicks, but I was pleased to find that this one lived up to its reputation – the cross of the lasers here coincided exactly with the drill bit. The integrated worklight also helped a lot, especially because the only lighting in the basement at this point was provided by an ancient and dusty 40 W bulb. Literally the dark ages of my woodworking!
To support the free ends a bit better, I mounted it to a sacrificial board. This also helped with tear out at the back but I don’t really think this was necessary, in hindsight.
A couple of minutes later (if that) and the holes were done.
The forstner bit set I had offered a range of sizes. I think this one was about 40 mm or so.
It cut through with minimal effort.
For some unknown reason, I did not put a sacrificial board below this and instead chose to set the depth to stop about 1 mm short of full penetration.
I didn’t have any shop vacuum at this stage, otherwise I would have put a nozzle nearby to alleviate the shaving collection.
As viewed from the top:
And from below.
Writing this in 2018, I am annoyed with myself for using this method. I won’t not put the photos up because it’s sharing experience but I really don’t know why I did it this way! Anyway, clearly I thought it best to knock the disc out of the bottom, at risk of pull out. This sanded off eventually, but the fact I know it’s there and others don’t bugs me!
All the way through at last. Minimal splash damage in the end and nothing the router won’t clean up.
I had an ogee bit that came with my router. Since I didn’t have a router table by this stage, I was a bit apprehensive with the cutting. It worked well enough, though.
At least the router didn’t produce any tear out at the ends. It was then over to the table saw again to cut out the notches. I don’t recall the exact width, probably about 15-20 mm – whatever fitted the glass stems.
A dry fit showed the success so far. Initially I was going to leave it like this but decided it looked unfinished.
Back to the drill press to drill holes for mounting. I did this behind each and every glass to ensure at least two screws would have good purchase. The intention is not to use each hole at once, that would be overkill. I’m glad I did this because I took it with me when we moved and used some other holes in it to fix it to the wall in the kitchen in the new house.
With the holes drilled, I countersunk the insides. I set the depth to leave about 10-15 mm of thread inside this piece.
I used the router to round over the inside edges. I didn’t set it as deep, this way I only used the roundover part and not put a vertical reveal on it.
I used the big vice to hold this. The wood was dense enough not to be marked by the jaws. I moved the piece each time to ensure the routing was done above the vice each time and not on a cantilever.
A light sand later:
Here it is against the rest of the piece which I’d cut off before. I will use this offcut to make another one of these in the future.
I used some spray varnish for this as it gave the best looking results on a test piece and I wanted to give it the maximum protection against high humidity. Cooking in the winter made that kitchen look like a Bleak House fog scene, as Chris Rea once sang (Candles).
Once dried, I took it upstairs into the newly refurbished (temporarily!) kitchen. There will be a post on this one day (link pending).
The wall had thin tongue and groove boards on it which were neither plumb nor flush. Using longer screws here helped as it pulled the wall straight. I checked for cables beforehand.
The rounded over inside edges help to grip the glasses – as long as the tops of the glass bases are rounded and not 90 degree bends, then they self-centre.
I think 80 mm was a suitable measurement for the aesthetics here, however I would recommend another 10-20 mm spacing. I’ve since acquired more glasses and the body of the glasses clash – the bases are clear of each other but they don’t sit vertically or on their own. As a result, I alternate large and small glasses on this now and will probably do the same when I make the offcut into another one of these.